I found out about the San Blas Islands entirely by accident. My friend and I planned to spend four days in the capital of Panama, so I was looking for what we could visit. One option was a day trip to some of the islands.
The San Blas Islands of Panama is an archipelago comprising approximately 365 islands, 49 of which are inhabited. The indigenous Kuna Yala tribe has self-governing authority over the island. In addition, they also own the neighbouring land of Guna Yala Comarca (highlighted in red on the map), which stretches along the coast to the border with Colombia.
The Kuna people speak the Tulekaya language. Many children attend mainland schools and thus are fluent in Spanish. Only those who come into contact with tourists know a little English.
Many islands are uninhabited. On a few islands, I saw only one or two houses where only one family lived. Some islands are reserved only for tourists, where they can experience the life of the local Kuna people. Not all islands have power generators. The electricity is usually turned off at night.
Practical information
Whether you’re planning a trip solo or with an organized group, don’t forget to pack:
- Passport: This is required to enter from the San Blas Hills, an area under the administration of the indigenous Kuna people.
- Money: cards are not accepted on the islands. The entrance fee to Guna Yala Comarca is $25 (US dollars).
- Sunscreen
- Sunglasses
- Towel
- Swimsuit and extra clothing
- Snorkelling set
- Bottled water for the whole day: the island water is not drinkable, and there are only a few places to buy it.
- Food: fruit, sweets or something salty
- Carsick medicine, if you get sick in the car. You will definitely need it.
- Wet wipes or hand sanitiser gel
The way to the islands
Several companies organise day trips from Panama City to the San Blas Islands. It is possible to get there independently by local connections. I booked this trip through Tripadvisor.
Our trip started around 5:15 in the morning. Two hours followed in a 6-seater 4×4 car along the relatively good Pan American Highway from Panama City to a gas station and a small shop El Llano Cartí, where we took a short break. The building also has a small restaurant, which quickly fills up with hungry tourists. Packing your food the day before and carrying it in your backpack is better. It will fit in the car, and you will avoid waiting in a long line.
We did not continue along the Pan American Highway from the gas station but turned right onto a smaller road. The first few minutes were comfortable, but soon the adventure began, and two lanes became one.
Our journey was very adventurous for the next hour and a half. There wasn’t a consecutive road without huge pits. I assume our driver was bored as he drives the same route daily. Thus he decided to race with the other drivers and take over other cars whenever possible. For us in the car, it was suffering. I held onto the handle above the door many times and hoped we would not roll onto our sides.
While droving up and down the San Blas Hills, we had breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. These views alone made this brutal journey worth it. Fortunately, no one got sick, and we all made it to the small port.
Port
Here, the locals grouped us based on our names. A couple from the Netherlands was riding in the car with me. They planned to spend two nights on one of the islands and were assigned to a different group than us. Having waited about 30 minutes for everyone in our group to arrive, we finally started our journey at 10:10 am. The boat crew gave every passenger a life jacket, and we left for our first island.
San Blas Islands
The trip included a visit to three islands and a natural swimming pool. Firstly, we visited Isla Pelicano, 40 minutes away from the mainland by boat. After 20 minutes boat ride, I spotted the first islands. Some were full of tiny wooden houses, and others were empty or had one building on the entire island.
After getting off the boat, our guide led us to the prepared chairs. I quickly put my things down and went to see the island.
Isla Pelicano is a smaller island. The whole island is reserved for tourists. In the island’s centre is a small wooden hut for local residents to prepare snacks. While I was walking around the island, our guide brought us fresh fruits – watermelon and pineapple.
The seawater had a fantastic temperature and was shallow. After snorkelling, I saw only a few small fish.
After spending two hours on Isla Pelicano, we moved to the natural swimming pool. It is a shallow area in the sea. Water was about up to my shoulders. I was lucky and saw a tiny starfish while snorkelling. I was not impressed by the choice of this place.
When we got to our next stop Isla Perro (Dog), lunch was waiting for us first. I decided on shrimp with patacones (fried plantain in batter).
An hour passed like nothing, and we moved to the last island of the trip – Isla Aguja. This island accommodates tourists and has a small restaurant with a bar. Here I ordered lobster and rum in a coconut.
Food and drinks
Some of the larger islands have small restaurants with a limited menu. Meals usually include what the fishermen catch in the morning: fish, crab, shrimp, lobster, and octopus. As a side dish, either rice or patacones (fried plantain (vegetable banana) in batter) and vegetable salad are given.
We had a lunch break on Isla Perro. One drink and food was included in the price of the trip. Be aware of locally prepared drinks such as hot cocoa, tea or drinks with ice. Make sure that bottles and cans are not open when served. The water on the islands is not recommended for drinking.
Accommodation on the islands usually includes food. There are small grocery stores on the larger islands. The selection is limited as everything has to be imported from the mainland. Some of the islands have one small bar that serves both locals and tourists. Ice is very hard to come by in the San Blas Islands.
Conclusion
The trip to the San Blas Islands was definitely worth the long, crazy drive (about 7 hours). If possible, I would change our time on the first island to one hour and skip the natural swimming pool. I would rather spend more time on the last island, Isla Aguja, where I could sit in a restaurant. Also, I would include a visit to one of the residents’ homes. I would like to see how they live in those wooden huts or learn more about their culture and customs.